NIGO Considers BAPE STA™ a "Big Mistake" Amid Nike Air Force 1 Collab

If you are of a certain age and have been interested in streetwear for more than 15 years, it's quite possible that Tomoaki Nagao (長尾 智明)—better known across the globe as NIGO (ニゴー)—hasn't done any wrong in your eyes. Yet, you might have raised an eyebrow upon reading him consider A BATHING APE® a "big mistake."

The legendary creative recently sat down with GQ in commemoration of NIGO: From Japan With Love, an exhibit hosted by London's the Design Museum from May 1-Oct. 4. The curated space features more than 700 objects from the 55-year-old multi-hyphenate's archive, showcasing his early interests and life's work. Given that he founded BAPE® in 1993 and operated it until 2011, the brand spans across the exhibit. Many pairs of the BAPE STA™ sneaker, which celebrates its 25th anniversary this year, are on display at the Design Museum; so are at least two Nike Air Force 1 collaborations by NIGO, the shoe "The General" based the design off of in the early 2000s.

Calling anything BAPE®-related a "big mistake" (albeit "in a good way") seems timely.

While at the helm of A BATHING APE®, which saw support from the likes of Pharrell Williams, Kanye West, and Lil Wayne, it seemed NIGO was on top of the world, enjoying the doors his popular brand opened. It seems Mr. Nagao acknowledges the value of having run the brand, but his categorization could be perceived as linked to his burgeoning relationship with NIKE, Inc.

It's long been rumored that NIGO originally developed and released the BAPE STA™ as a sort of "F*** you!" to Nike after an Air Force 1 project fell through at the turn-of-the-century. For a long time, official communication from the streetwear institution—with and without NIGO—categorized the silhouette as simply a take on basketball footwear from the 1980s. In his conversation with GQ, The General playfully admits that there "was a time when [he] was designing things that were inspired by Nike out of respect for them."

There were a number of silhouettes that evoked images of popular Nikes, but none had the through-line between the BAPE STA™ and Air Force 1—particularly the "presidential" pair's shape and build from 2001.

NIGO introduced the world to the BAPE STA™ universe in the November 2001 issue of Popeye Magazine. Within those pages, the entrepreneur and avid collector shared 39 different colorways of his AF-1-look-alike. Many of the design's earliest ensembles were faithful recreations of coveted Air Forces, especially those from the CO.JP program.

NIGO's product, however, differentiated itself through the use of star (STA™) branding and frequent patent leather finishes—the latter landing on the full-circle moment that is the "Last Orgy 2" Air Force 1.

Many people—especially those who have been following streetwear since the mid-2000s—are happy to see NIGO finally work on a Nike Air Force 1. The decision to explore manufacturing processes that would help the partnership obtain the sneaker's '01 shape must've been entirely rooted in the designer's nostalgia and standards for craftsmanship.

When coupled with his comments, the "Last Orgy 2" project could seem like a nail in the coffin for the current BAPE STA™, a sneaker that's been modified from the blueprint NIGO used due to trade dress disputes by Nike. However, all signs suggest the STA™-clad is thriving. Still fixed within youth culture, the shoe and wider BAPE® universe is still revered for championing bold expression, delivering playful collaborations, and paving the way for a segment of fashion without getting lost.

How will NIGO x NIKE and BAPE STA™ both look over the next 25 years? Only time will tell.

For more footwear news, read about the rumored return of Nike GYAKUSOU.